Ocean 2 Alps 2 Ocean (and another cyclone)

Christchurch and Little River Trail

Fate, it seems, in the shape of cyclone Gita, does not want me on the west coast. Two attempts to go west are thwarted. It does allow me to continue the my journey to Christchurch where I am very happy to meet up again and join forces with some new friends I met last week on the ferry. We amble around Christchurch, giggle in bed, are generously fed at our warmshowers host and spend the weekend doing a return trip on the Little River Trail out to the peninsula. Christchurch is full of gaping holes where there used to be buildings - it has a strange atmosphere. You cannot rebuild a city in a day or even a couple of years, it will take time.

Christchurch - a city being rebuilt step by step - and full of interesting art

The Little River Trail is reassuringly flat, I need a break from hills after the last week. We camp at a charming campsite where there is a bustling lively atmosphere since there is a drum festival, and some of the participants want us to stay. I am tempted by the infectious rhythms but we had made plans already...

Approaching Little River

We have breakfast while viewing the first drum workshop of the day and leave to go on a small hitchhiking adventure to Akaroa. Within 5 minutes of feeling silly while holding my thumb up a lovely lady offers us a lift and during the trip tells us about the area and brings us to a nice lookout point, a cheesemaking factory and a Maori marae and church. Best hitchhike ever! On the way back we are lucky again and get a lift from a very kind man. We treat ourselves to ice cream in Little River before cycling back up to the campsite. 

View toward Akaroa - the inside of an old, old volcano

The next day we cycle back to Christchurch - but this time with a ferocious headwind - we moan and groan and pedal on and on. After this our ways part again, it was fun to cycle and be together with a compatible companion. In fact the coming days I am a bit sad and miss my friends and family from home more than I did before. 

Zigzagging over the Canterbury Plains

The wind is still there the next day and I slog my way over the quieter roads of the Canterbury Plains (a lot like the Netherlands actually, even with cycle lanes at first) past an agricultural university to a campsite. The wind has a bitter bite and I am quite tired at the campsite at the beach village of Rakaia Huts. I treat myself to some rest time and washing etcetera and start a jigsaw puzzle in the morning. And although the German couple sitting next to me are at first a bit shy they keenly puzzle along with me - a little domestic camping bliss.

Canterbury Plains - Rakaia Huts

My next goal is Mt Somers which is on the other side of the Canterbury Plains at the edge of the Alps. It seems that those strong winds are a regular occurrence here on the Canterbury Plains. Most of the roads are flanked by 5 to 8m high rows of very thick conifer or pine hedges. Even the houses are hidden inside a sort of moat like vegetation structure to keep the winds out.

Canterbury Plains - walls of pine and conifers are everywhere

I have the dubious honour to cross the longest bridge in New Zealand at Rakaia. I would not recommend this for cyclists. It is a narrow 2 lane bridge, very busy (state highway 1), has no shoulder, no pavement, and no resting spots. I pedaled as fast as I could. Luckily there was a cafe just across where I could calm my nerves with some coffee and cake. 

The straight roads make for easy cycling and apart from the bridge I cycled on country roads so not too busy. I like this type of cycling - it leaves room for thinking and contemplation. This is one of the easiest ascents I have ever encountered, 400m spread out over 90km. I do wonder a bit about all the fires in the field, but am told later that week that they are burning out the tussock (cows and sheep don't eat it).

Canterbury Plains - farmers burning tussock vegetation

A day ride into the Alps

Mt Somers is a lovely small quiet village. I go for a day ride (without luggage - the camping boss thinks I am mad that I do this for fun) into the mountain valleys. There is only one road in and out and it soon turns to gravel. I still feel a bit shaky on the gravel after my fall last week so take it slow and easy. I stop after 40km before a steep section and decide that this view is good enough for today and turn back after the clouds start coming down. The enormous braiding river flats are very impressive - an endless supply of water and rocks carving away at the landscape slowly.

High Canterbury - A mountain valley near Mt Somers

Alps 2 Ocean cycle trail

After another day of cycling over the Canterbury Plains on the edge of the Alps I take a bus from Geraldine to Lake Tekapo. When I arrive the weather is lovely and bright, the lake shining bright blue. The amount of tourists alarm me so instead of staying in Tekapo I start cycling the Alps to Ocean cycle Trail immediately. Within minutes the hustle and bustle is left behind me and I cycle through the dry lands of the Mackenzie Basin. I sigh and smile in relief. The milky blue river Tekapo winds through the highland basin. The elevated road next to the canal gives spectacular views over the basin and the surrounding mountains. I notice the leaves are turning yellow - autumn is starting. The colours are amazing. The glacier fed lakes, rivers and canals are bright turquoise because of the fine silt in the water. 

A2O - Mackenzie Basin - Tekapo river

I have a bit of a challenge halfway through the ride to Lake Pukaki because suddenly the winds of hell are unleashed on the - what was until then a -calm sunny plateau. I imagine the winds are coming down directly from Mt Cook catching travellers unaware. I plod on over tarmac and gravel. Lake Pukaki shines with colour through the patches of sunlight. It is mesmerizing to look at. So mesmerizing that I put up my tent next to the Lake that evening and watch the sun and rain interact until darkness falls.

A2O - Lake Pukaki

A disadvantage of the silty water is that my Steripen waterfilter does not work so well. I tried to let the silt settle before using the lake water for cooking and drinking but I don't think it worked. I have stomach troubles on and off for the next week. At Lake Pukaki visitor centre I have a hot drink and watch the busloads of tourists eat Alpine salmon. Apparently the salmon farms in the canals are world famous. I cycle to Twizel over the Pine Flats and stop at a cafe for several cups of chamomile tea. The next stretch has another easy cycling canal. Today the wind is calmer and the clouds slowly lift into a beautiful sunny day in the afternoon.

A2O - Pukaki Canal - whoever said canals or flat cycling was boring?!!!

There is a fun single track section along Lake Ohau cycling around Ben Ohau. Scottish naming influences are becoming more prevalent further south, like loch and ben and dun. I meet some Te Areroa walkers, we share tracks for 2 days. I have booked Lake Ohau Lodge for 2 nights and I have a good rest at this wonderful place. The custom is to seat people together at dinner so that is nice when you are traveling alone and I have two great evenings with interesting people. I am glad I am not cycling on my restday because the clouds come down with a vengeance and the only variation in the weather of that day is a lot of rain or just rain.

A2O - Ben Ohau

Despite being sick again in the morning I do decide to go on and just take it easy. And luckily the 300 meter climb is on a well made single track with no real steep gradients so I don't have to push my bike. I see lots of mushrooms in some scattered pine forests. 

A2O - climbing the hill on the single track - fun!

A2O phew - made it to the highest point

I take it easy the next days and take long breaks in the sun and read a lot. Riding to Kurow I have strong biting headwinds with bits of rain and I don't enjoy myself so much that day especially on the road sections.

A2O - view over the river by Kurow

Luckily the weather, although getting noticeably colder, is fine the next couple of days and I splash around in the numerous fords along the river section to Duntroon. At some point the path pretty much follows the river bed (see photo), I don't think one would still call that a ford technically. I test the depth of the waters first before taking my bike through the shallowest sections. Bonus is that it gets a lot of the dust of my bike.

A2O - A day of fords - the path is pretty much straight ahead... yeah right

The last section of the trail is surprisingly nice. The Alps have been left behind and I ride some 50 odd km through limestone country with weird shapes and holes and cliffs everywhere. The trail has been made off track mostly winding through the farms and river valleys. There is a steep climb at one point but the reward is a hazy view over the hills towards the ocean. I arrive gratefully at the end of the day in Oamaru - a wonderful laid back small town - at a welcoming warmshowers host and I stay in a Tiny House that they are building.

A2O - Elephant rocks - limestone